Though
Mysterious World: Ireland
contains a great of historical and mythological information about ancient Ireland, the lion's share of the book covers Ian Middleton's journey to rediscover mysterious Ireland. In our new Travelogue section, we will present you with various vignettes from Ian's journey through all 32 counties, starting at the beginning.
Part I: The Beginning
Hello, my name is Ian
Middleton. Here’s me
standing outside
of my favorite
place to stay
when in Ireland:
Kirwan House in Wexford,
County Wexford. I am a
travel writer based in southern
England, but I have
traveled the world, writing
travel books and articles
about my many adventures.
However, my favorite place to visit, and write about, is
Ireland — my home away from home.
One fateful day two years ago whilst surfing the
Internet looking for travel sites and related things of
interest, I stumbled across this amazing website called
Mysterious World (http://www.mysteriousworld.com).
Ostensibly a travel site, it actually includes a great deal
more historical and mythological information than I
am used to seeing in a travel site. I found the site fascinating
and, as a travel writer always on the lookout
for someone to write for, I contacted the publisher
straightaway with an idea I had about writing a series
of articles on traveling in Ireland.
Doug Elwell, the publisher, got back to me fairly
quickly, reacting to my initial email enquiry with
some interest. However, instead of just a series of articles
on Ireland, he suggested that we make an entire
book out of it, and call it
Mysterious World: Ireland,
the first in a series of travel guides. “That’s a great
idea!” I replied, and a book was born.
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Mind you I had already written
a pretty good book about
some of my travel adventures in
Ireland (Hot-Footing It around
the Emerald Isle, available at
http://www.schmetterlingproductions.co.uk), but what Doug
had in mind was not a simple
travelogue, but a huge, rollercoaster
of a travel guide, covering
the entire island, crammed
with all types of travel, historical
and mythological information, with some hot gypsies
thrown in (well, maybe not so many gypsies). He wanted
to cover not only the superficial, touristy side of
Ireland (as other travel guides do), but explore absolutely
everything to do with Irish history, religion and
mythology — everything that makes Ireland Ireland.
My contribution to the project would be the travelogue
& travel info portion, covering all 32 counties and several
islands, that would make up the lion’s share of the
book. However, like Mysterious World’s online journal
(http://www.mysteriousworld.com/Journal/), the book
would also include some very substantial sections that
Doug would write on the historical and mythological
backgrounds of the many places that I would be visiting
throughout the island.
When Doug gave me my itinerary, I noticed that
he had retained the old practice of dividing Ireland
into four provinces — Leinster, Munster, Connaught
and Ulster — in his planning. Though only used
informally now, the use of the four ancient provinces
into which Ireland originally had been divided by
the Fir Bolg in ancient times helped to recall the
ancient past that we were attempting to rediscover,
as many of the stories behind these locations are still
inextricably tied to the provinces in which they
occurred. Interestingly, he also pointed out that I
needed to travel clockwise around the island, as the
ancient Irish believed that moving in that direction
brought good luck. Moreover, moving anti-clockwise
would actually bring bad luck. Why not? I
thought, thinking that perhaps Doug was a little
superstitious himself.
My part of the book was to be called “The
Journey”, which was about my journey to rediscover
the ancient, mysterious side of Ireland that has slowly
but surely been disappearing in the face of
encroaching modernization. And in my research I
discovered that numerous ancient archaeological
sites and even
Tara,
the heart of ancient Ireland, are
right now in real danger of being seriously compromised,
damaged, or even destroyed to make way for
such things as superhighways. As such, the current
government of Ireland’s legacy to future generations
may well be the obliteration of their ancient past,
just so commuters can shave a few minutes off their
morning drive.
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I then realized that the real importance on this
project was not only to create a travel guide that
actually had some depth to it, but to
draw attention to the plight of that
part of Ireland that is slowly disappearing
— the raths, the stone circles,
the megaliths — the very history
of the land itself. Ireland is not just
about leprechauns and pots o’ gold — it
is a country with an ancient history
richer than most in the civilized West,
a history that needs to be cherished
and protected.
With this in mind I piled all my usual travel gear
into the “Mystery Machine” (aka, the “Scooby Van”,
my name for a well-used Bedford Midi camper conversion
that I have been using for the last couple of
years for trips like this) and headed for Fishguard on
the west coast of Wales to cross the Irish Sea on the
ferry, arriving in Rosslare, southeast Ireland after only
a few hours. The great thing about the ferry is that I
can take my camper and everything across, saving the
hassle (and cost) of flying, and of renting a car (which
can get expensive). I can even use it to sleep in when
funds are low, which I did frequently, as we shall see.
I finally made my way to Kirwan House in
Wexford Town, “the last homely house” as I like to
call it, from where I have begun many adventures.
The year was 2004, and it was the fifth year I had
been to Ireland. In that time I must have notched up
over two years spent traveling or living in this country.
I knew it well, or so I thought.
As I sat resting in the TV room, I picked up a copy
of the South East Voice newspaper sitting nearby, and
this headline jumped out at me: “Mysterious Circle
Appears in Joe ‘Boy’ Conboy’s Back Garden”. I read
on. It told how local man Joe had awoken one morning
to find this mysterious circle. Many theories were
suggested by other locals, (the most comical being
from a farmer who claimed to have been abducted by
Martians for eleven hours, warning that “they” were
up to their old tricks again. Part of me couldn’t help
wondering if this was inspired by one too many pints
of Guinness.) However, one quote really caught my
eye: “It was the work of the fairies”.
As I sipped my coffee I began to think more about this side of Ireland.
It’s a land
aglow with stories,
ancient myths and legends: from fairies to leprechauns,
from the ancient gods to the legendary
giants. Many stories of great battles and magical tales
have their origins here, and many are famous around
the world. It was becoming evident that I had experienced
many wonderful things in this green land, yet
this, the most significant part of Ireland, I had overlooked.
It was time to put that right.
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